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По-настоящему народный проект Ольги Михайловской и Евгении Филипповой Front продолжает открывать новые грани локальной фэшн-индустрии. На этот раз — через свадебную коллекцию Мадины Саральп. Рассматриваем эскизы и лукбук, подоспевший аккурат к wedding-сезону.
О том, как ловко Михайловская и Филиппова работают с отечественными марками, преломляющими национальные style tricks, мы подробнее рассказывали и показывали тут. Но в преддверии свадебного сезона Front пошел еще дальше — выпустил специальную коллекцию Мадины Саральп для невест, их подружек и тех, кто любит красивые вещи в белом (и не только) и всех его производных.
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В свойственной ей манере Саральп создала платья, накидки, жилеты, так или иначе напоминающие по крою, силуэтам и деталям этнический черкесский костюм, но совершенно адаптированный к современной жизни. Капсула вышла небольшой — всего три образа, но каждый собран из нескольких нарядов: верхнего и нижнего платья, жилета, жакета, аксессуаров в виде контрастной эффектной ленты или вечерней сумочки, щедро расшитой стеклярусом и бисером. То есть каждый из комплектов можно разобрать на составляющие, носить сольно и/или сочетать между собой — и даже не придерживаться канонов и традиций.
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В свадебном дропе, впрочем, как и всегда, Мадина тщательно и скрупулезно трудилась над вышивкой. «За 20 лет работы мы не повторили ни одного орнамента», — объясняет она. А потому каждая вещь здесь уникальна и может смело быть записана в ряды haute couture. Кстати, о высокой моде. На создание одного образа Мадина и черкесские мастерицы потратили около месяца: портные, вышивальщицы, а теперь еще и ювелиры, которые украшали пояса, медные пряжки и нагрудные застежки. Но и это еще не все: любая вещь из коллекции изготавливается по индивидуальному заказу и с учетом пожеланий. Например, выбора совершенно не свадебного в классическом представлении цвета.
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Состоит сразу из двух платьев — приталенного нижнего и более свободного верхнего. Из примечательного: рукава первого на высоком манжете идут с декоративной отстрочкой и застежкой на пуговицы (к нему же можно заказать пышную нижнюю юбку на корсете); у второго, отрезного по линии талии, обнаружен воротник-стойка, отлетные рукава и выстроченный нагрудник. В качестве аксессуаров — белый (или черный) пояс, также украшенный отстрочкой, и велюровая сумочка с металлической застежкой.
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Более сложная версия свадебного образа, включающая, помимо основного платья (с пышной юбкой и двойными рукавами) и верхнего (воздушный низ со шлейфом и шнуровкой, декорированной кистями ручной работы из бисера и стекляруса), полукафтан с воротником-стойкой и декоративным нагрудником. Сюда же — пояс из меди с глубоким серебрением и сумочка-кисет с вышивкой, имитирующей золотное шитье.
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На приталенное без рукавов платье надеваем еще одно, трапециевидное, с кружевным нагрудником, без рукавов. Следом — либо кафтан силуэта «песочные часы», у которого рукава вышиты бисером, стеклярусом и жемчугом, либо верхнее распашное платье с длинными рукавами. Над ним также работали мастерицы по вышивке. На талию — пояс из меди, в руки — все ту же сумочку-кисет.
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